La différence entre le canard gras traditionnel et industriel

La différence entre le canard gras traditionnel et industriel

A l'origine, la période d'élevage du canard gras dans le sud-ouest était concentrée entre Novembre et Mars. Tout d'abord car les producteurs étaient pour la plupart des agriculteurs qui profitaient de la saison creuse de leur activité pour s'assurer un complément de revenu tout en écoulant leur stock de maïs produit lors de la saison estivale. De plus, les clients, qui préparaient leurs conserves pour l'année, préféraient "travailler" la viande avec des températures fraiches pour ne pas l'altérer.

Néanmoins, depuis l'avènement des grandes surfaces, l'offre en magrets, foie gras et autres confits s'est vu annualisée, ce qui a entrainé l'adaptation du secteur vers une production plus industrielle souvent au détriment de la qualité.

En tant que défenseurs d'une production traditionnelle artisanale, nous allons essayer au travers de cet article de vous aider à faire la différence entre une viande issue de l'élevage traditionnel et celle provenant de la production industrielle afin de mieux orienter vos futurs achats.

La méthode d'élevage

L'élevage industriel a principalement été adopté par l'industrie agroalimentaire afin de réduire les coûts de production : de nombreuses fonctions ont été automatisées et le personnel agricole réduit.
Les animaux ne voient quasiment jamais le jour et sont entassés dans des hangars surdimensionnés.

Au contraire, l'élevage traditionnel laisse aux canards le temps de se développer tranquillement (au moins deux semaines de plus d'élevage) en plein air ou en liberté (parcours sans clôture). Les souches de canards utilisées sont dites à croissance lente. Lorsqu'ils sont mis à l'abri, les palmipèdes sont moins nombreux en densité que leurs compères issus de l'élevage industriel.

 

Toutes ces différences ont pour effet des résultats de production évidents. Un canard issu d'un élevage traditionnel sera moins enclin à être malade (densité moindre) d'où une utilisation d'antibiotiques plus rare. De plus, l'élevage en plein air lui permet de développer plus de muscles et donc de produire une viande plus charnue et moins grasse.

L'alimentation

Pour des raisons de commodité et de frais moindres, l'industriel nourri ses canards avec de la pâtée (mélange de maïs broyé et d'eau) alors que le paysan traditionnel le nourri de maïs grain entier cuit.

Si le rendement est plus élevé en termes de canards gavés à l'heure, le rendement en viande est plus faible et cette dernière est bien moins goûteuse.

Canard mal plumé

Le plumage

Il n'est pas rare de trouver des cous entiers recouverts de plumes ou, plus grave, des morceaux plus "nobles" avec quelques résidus très désagréables sous la dent.

L'industrie agroalimentaire est bien souvent à l'origine de ces "oublis" pour favoriser leur rendement, même si certains paysans pressés ne sont parfois pas en reste en termes d'épilation défectueuse.

La découpe

Toujours dans un souci de rentabilité, la découpe des morceaux est souvent négligée par les industriels. En effet, il est bien plus rentable de vendre un magret avec 30g de gras en plus qu'un magret bien dégraissé et un "excédant" de graisse qui sera fondue et revendue six fois moins cher.

Exemple :

  • - 100 magrets coupés correctement (0.420kg) à 17€/kg = 714€ + 3kg (30g/magret) de graisse à 3€/kg = 9€, soit un total de 723€ de chiffre d'affaire
  • - 100 magrets mal découpés (0.450kg) à 17€/kg = 765€ de chiffre d'affaire
Magret de canard mal découpéMagret de canard bien paré
Magret de canard mal découpéMagret de canard bien paré

   

Le goût, le calibre

Enfin, le plus important pour la fin, les qualités organoleptiques du foie gras et de la viande de canards élevés à l'ancienne sont incomparables avec ceux des méthodes industrielles.

Nous avons souvent eu les retours d'expériences de clients ayant testé de faire cuire un magret Malaprade au côté d'un magret acheté en grande surface. Voilà ce qui ressort de cette expérience :

  • - La différence de poids est substantielle : entre 300 et 380g pour un magret industriel et entre 400 et 500g (voire parfois jusqu'à 600g pour certains spécimens) pour un magret de chez Malaprade,
  • - le magret de grande surface perd énormément de poids à la cuisson alors que le magret traditionnel quasiment pas (la fonte de graisse principalement),
  • - notre magret est très tendre alors que la viande de son équivalent industriel est souvent nerveuse,
  • - au niveau du goût, l'"indus" ne tient pas la comparaison avec le "tradi".

Ce qui vaut pour le magret vaut bien sûr pour le reste des morceaux du canard.

 

Quelques conseils pour bien faire son choix

Difficile de faire son choix si l'on n'est pas connaisseur, me direz-vous ! Effectivement, il est souvent trop tard (à la dégustation) lorsqu'on se rend compte que l'on a fait le bon ou le mauvais choix.

Voici donc quelques conseils pour ne plus se tromper :

  • - Evitez les packs de 3 magrets sous-vide souvent importés d'Europe de l'Est. Etant donné le poids de ces packs (1kg), vous aurez à faire à des magrets de 300g, ce qui est typique dans l'élevage industriel.
  • - Gardez un œil sur la découpe des morceaux ! N'oubliez pas que la graisse coûte cher lorsqu'un magret ou une cuisse sont mal parés, par exemple.
  • - Fuyez les foies gras dits de canard qui présentent des veines apparentes, il s'agit de foie de canette. Vous ne retrouverez pas le goût du foie de canard, loin de là, et le déveinage vous rendra fou !
  • - N'achetez pas un foie de canard frais à la consistance dure pour le cuire (surtout en conserve), vous risquez de manger beaucoup de graisse. Si vous êtes chanceux, il ne fondra pas mais le jeu n'en vaut pas la chandelle.
  • - Un foie de canard traditionnel de 700g ou plus n'est pas à déconseiller malgré les recommandations de beaucoup de chefs. Il suffit juste d'adapter sa préparation. On évitera la stérilisation de ces foies qui rendraient plus de graisse qu'un de 500g (quoique si on vous le vend chaud, vous pourriez avoir des surprises !) et on lui préfèrera une consommation crue, poêlé ou en mi-cuit. Certains préfèrent même ces gros foies aux petits en termes de goût.
  • - A moins d'être esthéticienne, pensez à retourner les manchons, les cuisses ou les ailes côté graisse afin de ne pas vous retrouver avec des plumes dans votre confit ou de passer de longues minutes à parfaire l'épilation de votre viande.
  • - Vérifiez l'alimentation du canard que vous achetez en jetant un œil au jabot de ce dernier ! Il reste souvent des grains de maïs non digérés… ou de la pâtée…
Magret de canard de BulgarieMagret de canard de qualité
Magret de canard de Bulgarie en promotionMagret de canard de chez Malaprade

A une époque, où il est de plus en plus difficile de savoir ce que l'on a dans l'assiette, ces petites astuces devraient vous permettre d'acheter des produits de qualité.

Et si vous ne voulez pas vous prendre la tête à chercher, rendez nous visite sur notre boutique en ligne ou sur un marché du Tarn, de l'Aude ou de la Haute-Garonne ! ;)

VISITEZ NOTRE BOUTIQUE EN LIGNE !

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